crankyoldman (![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
crankyoldman) wrote2011-05-03 01:52 pm
crankyoldman) wrote2011-05-03 01:52 pm
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Sewing and Cosplay Week: How to Sew Thrifty
Hey I'm back, was just doing things out of town and away from my computer and being a little emo shoopuff. Which was fun, actually. XD So time to continue this. I know I'm focusing a lot on materials, but materials are really really important if you don't want to be frustrated. Technique comes with practice, but if you're hindering by materials, well. You're not going to get much done.
I happen to be a big proponent for getting used or vintage supplies and tools. Some people will disagree with me on this and insist that you always have to buy new for everything. Some things used in sewing are better off new (scissors for instance) but if you're thoughtful there's really no reason you have to buy new for everything.
The key is being thoughtful.
Sewing Machines
I happen to really like old sewing machines. I'm a fan of all-metal bodies and interiors. Keep in mind YMMV on some of my opinions here. It's not a bad thing to buy a new machine, I just happen to find it unnecessary (and depending on the brand) more frustrating.
- Singer sewing machines after the 1960s are crap. There are a couple models in particular that are really great from that era, just do a little research.
- Kenmore made some badass machines in the 60s and 70s in particular. My main workhorse is a Kenmore 12-stitch. She can chew through any material I've thrown at her and hasn't jammed yet!
- The 40s has some good electric machines, but you have to be careful. A lot of the times the belts are on the outside and the rubber in them may decay and cause slipping.
- No matter what machine you get, you have to put in the time to make sure it's in working order. Either take it to a shop or (as I do, because I'm an engineer) really get to know the inner workings. My Singer machine had a problem with slipping which I found out was a result of the gears needing some serious greasing.
- If the machine is cheap, make sure it comes with all the parts. Or else it won't be cheap. I happen to have the good fortune of inheriting all my machines, which were lovingly kept by my grandmother (and a little less lovingly by my mother). So it came with boxes with the extras. You may not be this lucky. You may check to see what the going rate is for replacement parts before deciding if you want a machine.
- Read reviews! There are a bajillion places on the web where people talk about certain models of old sewing machines. My Singer, for instance, is a version before a craptacular machine that every sewer hates (they changed the gear chain into something AWFUL). But they look exactly alike on the outside. Make sure you find out the model name and number and look it up.
- Seriously, make sure you get your machine cleaned up and in working order before you try to use it. It'll save a lot of tears later.
- Needles haven't changed much over the years. But you should always stick to the same brand as your machine for your needles, as there are some quirks at times.
- Estate sales are some of the better places to pick up an old sewing machine. Or your relatives. It doesn't hurt to ask your older relatives (if you're on speaking terms) if they have an old machine you can have.
- In-table or "portable" models work the same, it's just a matter of whether you have room or like the look of one or the other. Really.
Patterns
Vintage patterns can be really fab. But there's some things you should look for.
- Know your sizing. Don't just take the pattern numbers and letters at face value. Know your measurements.
- Set rules. I never buy cut patterns. Because I have no idea what size they cut for. Some people never buy patterns with damaged envelopes (I will if the inners are intact). But set rules and stick to them.
- Be aware that the directions will vary wildly. Some are very detailed and wonderful directions. Some sound like gibberish. Get to know some modern patterns before tackling vintage in this case.
- If it smells or looks like it was ever wet, don't get it. It is paper-based, after all.
- Look for reviews! People love to talk about patterns as much as they do about any other aspect of sewing.
- Look for old books that talk about drafting patterns. They are fantastic.
Fabric
I think fabric is one of the better things to get used or vintage, unless you're doing something very specific. But if you're just messing around or making clothes for yourself it's a lot cheaper to get fabric through these various ways.
- Sheets! In thrift stores, there is always sheets and bedding. If you like the look of it, there's no reason you can't make a dress out of it. Cotton is best, though, again try and make sure it's not polyester.
- Some thrift stores do in fact sell bits of fabric. I've contributed some before (my grandmother's stash had some... fabric that was not to my liking). This is more common in bigger areas than smaller ones, though. Like I've never seen just plain fabric at my Goodwill.
- Muumuu's are a great source of fabric if you're a smaller person. Anything large and voluminous clothing-wise works for this.
- Make sure that your fabric is not starting to wear away in places, or the thread is falling apart. Natural fibers break down in various ways after a time. Silk is some of the worst, depending on storage. If it was stored well, it might be good. But it doesn't tend to be.
- Taffeta also does not age well. I have a Victorian dress that can attest to that.
- Oh and hotels throwing out old sheets make good muslin. If you do muslins. >.>
Thread
Controversial subject, apparently. Again, you have to weigh your comfort level with this. I use both old thread (for odd colors) and Gutermann thread (for standard colors), depending on my project.
- Silk thread degrades badly. It just does.
- Cotton thread can also dry rot if not stored properly. Just tug on it, and if it seems weak, it probably is.
- Jars o' thread, if priced nicely, aren't a bad thing. A lot of antique stores have them. Worst case is you can't use most of them and you make them into a display piece. I happen to find that cute.
- People's "destash" is a really good way to get newer thread at much marked down prices. A lot of crafters end up with too much stuff and then decide to clean it out. Just do a search on etsy for "thread destash" and you'll see what I mean.
- "Deadstock" is also good, depending on if it was stored well. Use common sense.
Buttons
I've only bought new buttons once. Because the costume was really specific. Old buttons are EVERYWHERE.
- Steal them from old clothes. Before you get rid of a garment you loved and can no longer wear, take off its buttons (if you liked them).
- Thrift and antique stores do the jar o' buttons thing too. And there are some WILD old buttons out there.
- Destash as well will provide you many button opportunities.
Needles
Really, only if you find them in unopened packages. Used needles are well, dull. And not helpful. But you can find unopened packages of needles at thrift places if you keep your eye out for them.
Scissors
Again, only if they are packaged and obviously unused. Dull scissors don't help at all, they hinder.
Various notions
Like buttons, they can be recovered from old garments or found in thrift stores. I would caution taking a plastic zipper out of something; if it doesn't look that strong and doesn't zip very well, it's better to just buy a new one.
Buying New
- COUPONS. If you are serious about sewing and want to do it regularly, it's not a bad idea to get yourself on a mailing list (or email list) at your favorite stores to know about coupons and markdowns.
- Be patient. If you're sewing something last minute, it's going to cost more than if you planned it out in advance and waited for the sales or coupons. Don't impulse sew!
- Don't be afraid to order stuff online. If you're like me and in the middle of nowhere, don't settle for what the big box store has if you don't like it. Make sure they have a decent return policy, though.
- eBay can be great, but make sure they tell you EVERYTHING. This goes for used and new. And make sure you have a limit on what you're willing to spend. If the auction goes past that, well, you can look elsewhere.
- Be aware of seasons. Don't buy Halloween oriented fabrics close to Halloween. Don't by Christmas fabric close to Christmas. You may not have as BIG of a selection, yes, but you'll save a lot.
- If you're going to use a lot of something, buy it in bulk. It may seem expensive at first, but in the long run you're saving yourself a lot.
Next time: Patterns, What Do They Mean?
I happen to be a big proponent for getting used or vintage supplies and tools. Some people will disagree with me on this and insist that you always have to buy new for everything. Some things used in sewing are better off new (scissors for instance) but if you're thoughtful there's really no reason you have to buy new for everything.
The key is being thoughtful.
Sewing Machines
I happen to really like old sewing machines. I'm a fan of all-metal bodies and interiors. Keep in mind YMMV on some of my opinions here. It's not a bad thing to buy a new machine, I just happen to find it unnecessary (and depending on the brand) more frustrating.
- Singer sewing machines after the 1960s are crap. There are a couple models in particular that are really great from that era, just do a little research.
- Kenmore made some badass machines in the 60s and 70s in particular. My main workhorse is a Kenmore 12-stitch. She can chew through any material I've thrown at her and hasn't jammed yet!
- The 40s has some good electric machines, but you have to be careful. A lot of the times the belts are on the outside and the rubber in them may decay and cause slipping.
- No matter what machine you get, you have to put in the time to make sure it's in working order. Either take it to a shop or (as I do, because I'm an engineer) really get to know the inner workings. My Singer machine had a problem with slipping which I found out was a result of the gears needing some serious greasing.
- If the machine is cheap, make sure it comes with all the parts. Or else it won't be cheap. I happen to have the good fortune of inheriting all my machines, which were lovingly kept by my grandmother (and a little less lovingly by my mother). So it came with boxes with the extras. You may not be this lucky. You may check to see what the going rate is for replacement parts before deciding if you want a machine.
- Read reviews! There are a bajillion places on the web where people talk about certain models of old sewing machines. My Singer, for instance, is a version before a craptacular machine that every sewer hates (they changed the gear chain into something AWFUL). But they look exactly alike on the outside. Make sure you find out the model name and number and look it up.
- Seriously, make sure you get your machine cleaned up and in working order before you try to use it. It'll save a lot of tears later.
- Needles haven't changed much over the years. But you should always stick to the same brand as your machine for your needles, as there are some quirks at times.
- Estate sales are some of the better places to pick up an old sewing machine. Or your relatives. It doesn't hurt to ask your older relatives (if you're on speaking terms) if they have an old machine you can have.
- In-table or "portable" models work the same, it's just a matter of whether you have room or like the look of one or the other. Really.
Patterns
Vintage patterns can be really fab. But there's some things you should look for.
- Know your sizing. Don't just take the pattern numbers and letters at face value. Know your measurements.
- Set rules. I never buy cut patterns. Because I have no idea what size they cut for. Some people never buy patterns with damaged envelopes (I will if the inners are intact). But set rules and stick to them.
- Be aware that the directions will vary wildly. Some are very detailed and wonderful directions. Some sound like gibberish. Get to know some modern patterns before tackling vintage in this case.
- If it smells or looks like it was ever wet, don't get it. It is paper-based, after all.
- Look for reviews! People love to talk about patterns as much as they do about any other aspect of sewing.
- Look for old books that talk about drafting patterns. They are fantastic.
Fabric
I think fabric is one of the better things to get used or vintage, unless you're doing something very specific. But if you're just messing around or making clothes for yourself it's a lot cheaper to get fabric through these various ways.
- Sheets! In thrift stores, there is always sheets and bedding. If you like the look of it, there's no reason you can't make a dress out of it. Cotton is best, though, again try and make sure it's not polyester.
- Some thrift stores do in fact sell bits of fabric. I've contributed some before (my grandmother's stash had some... fabric that was not to my liking). This is more common in bigger areas than smaller ones, though. Like I've never seen just plain fabric at my Goodwill.
- Muumuu's are a great source of fabric if you're a smaller person. Anything large and voluminous clothing-wise works for this.
- Make sure that your fabric is not starting to wear away in places, or the thread is falling apart. Natural fibers break down in various ways after a time. Silk is some of the worst, depending on storage. If it was stored well, it might be good. But it doesn't tend to be.
- Taffeta also does not age well. I have a Victorian dress that can attest to that.
- Oh and hotels throwing out old sheets make good muslin. If you do muslins. >.>
Thread
Controversial subject, apparently. Again, you have to weigh your comfort level with this. I use both old thread (for odd colors) and Gutermann thread (for standard colors), depending on my project.
- Silk thread degrades badly. It just does.
- Cotton thread can also dry rot if not stored properly. Just tug on it, and if it seems weak, it probably is.
- Jars o' thread, if priced nicely, aren't a bad thing. A lot of antique stores have them. Worst case is you can't use most of them and you make them into a display piece. I happen to find that cute.
- People's "destash" is a really good way to get newer thread at much marked down prices. A lot of crafters end up with too much stuff and then decide to clean it out. Just do a search on etsy for "thread destash" and you'll see what I mean.
- "Deadstock" is also good, depending on if it was stored well. Use common sense.
Buttons
I've only bought new buttons once. Because the costume was really specific. Old buttons are EVERYWHERE.
- Steal them from old clothes. Before you get rid of a garment you loved and can no longer wear, take off its buttons (if you liked them).
- Thrift and antique stores do the jar o' buttons thing too. And there are some WILD old buttons out there.
- Destash as well will provide you many button opportunities.
Needles
Really, only if you find them in unopened packages. Used needles are well, dull. And not helpful. But you can find unopened packages of needles at thrift places if you keep your eye out for them.
Scissors
Again, only if they are packaged and obviously unused. Dull scissors don't help at all, they hinder.
Various notions
Like buttons, they can be recovered from old garments or found in thrift stores. I would caution taking a plastic zipper out of something; if it doesn't look that strong and doesn't zip very well, it's better to just buy a new one.
Buying New
- COUPONS. If you are serious about sewing and want to do it regularly, it's not a bad idea to get yourself on a mailing list (or email list) at your favorite stores to know about coupons and markdowns.
- Be patient. If you're sewing something last minute, it's going to cost more than if you planned it out in advance and waited for the sales or coupons. Don't impulse sew!
- Don't be afraid to order stuff online. If you're like me and in the middle of nowhere, don't settle for what the big box store has if you don't like it. Make sure they have a decent return policy, though.
- eBay can be great, but make sure they tell you EVERYTHING. This goes for used and new. And make sure you have a limit on what you're willing to spend. If the auction goes past that, well, you can look elsewhere.
- Be aware of seasons. Don't buy Halloween oriented fabrics close to Halloween. Don't by Christmas fabric close to Christmas. You may not have as BIG of a selection, yes, but you'll save a lot.
- If you're going to use a lot of something, buy it in bulk. It may seem expensive at first, but in the long run you're saving yourself a lot.
Next time: Patterns, What Do They Mean?