Sewing and Cosplay Week: Beginner Sewing
Apr. 25th, 2011 03:27 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
crankyoldmanSo, my first week for Three Weeks for Dreamwidth is going to be sewing, costuming, cosplay, and style related. Hell, it may even go into next week because I have a lot to babble about these subjects.
Today is all about the trials and tribulations of beginner sewing, as I know several of you are starting out with machines. Keep in mind, I am basically 99% self-taught and am constantly finding better more finished ways to do things as I go along, which people who have had some formal experience would laugh about.
But hey, at least I'm doing it, right?
I'm going to focus on women's clothing, mostly because I'm just now getting to my first men's clothing project. Not because I forget about you menfolk. I just can't say. If you want a good source of talk about men's sewing projects, I suggest Male Pattern Boldness. During his sew-alongs he goes through things step by step, and has lots of comments on both mens and womens patterns, particularly vintage.
- Fold the cloth in half and then cut if you have to cut two of the same pattern piece. Yes, I seriously did not know this at first. It saves time and makes your pieces match up better. Also, if it tells you to cut on the fold on the pattern, cut on the fold.
- Get to know how your machine handles a straight stitch before you try anything curved. Some machines have quirks. Effy (my oldest machine) was very quirky. In fact, learning on a slightly difficult machine makes it so much easier to handle ones that are friendlier.
- Woven fabrics are what you want to start with. Don't even look at stretch fabrics until you've figured out how to make something on a woven fabric, as stretch fabrics do FUNNY things.
- Bias tape is an intermediate skill, not a first project especially on a curve (yes, I did that as a first project, it disturbs me how long it took).
- Coats are actually good first projects, if you can handle sleeves. Anything with long, straight panels is excellent for beginners.
- If you're going to be doing a lot of fitted stuff, get a dressform. Seriously. It will save you time and frustration. If your measurements allow, an adjustable dressform tends to be on the cheaper side. That is still not actually cheap, but cheaper than a custom one.
- This is a slipstitch. When you pattern calls for one (and a lot of patterns do) this is what they mean. And no, they don't show you in the directions. And yes, you will have to do that by hand.
- It's easier to pick a pattern that fits your widest part that doesn't conform to an hourglass (for me, it's my waist) and then take in where it's big than the other way around. For example: when I make a bodycon dress, I always pick the pattern that matches my waist, then take in the bust and hips to fit my straight figure, rather than draft a larger waist. This allows for mistakes as well.
- In general, it's easier to take in than it is to expand. So buy more fabric than you think you'll need, leaving more of a margin of error depending on your confidence. I'm much more confident now, and can fix a mistake easier than before, so I am much closer to the suggested yardage than I used to be. When starting out, you may need as much as a half a yard of error to give yourself.
- Invest in a couple patterns. Seriously. If you go at the right times or find the right sites, you can get them for under a dollar. If you're plus sized and have issues finding patterns to fit you, then look up about pattern grading. Or how to make a pattern bigger to fit you. Annoying, I know, but it just uses paper and you can practice that a bit.
- Easy Sew types of patterns may not always be easy to sew. The best way to tell if a pattern will be easy is by looking at the back and the views. Is there a lot of panels? Darts? Funky edges? Avoid. Look for straight panels, lots of ease (aka: room for you to move in the garment), and basic silhouettes.
- Save all your scraps! Unless they are tiny things from trimming your seams. In that case, toss. But scraps are handy for a bajillion things, and good if you just want to practice a stitch.
- It's not a failure to rip out a seam and start again. Really. Just make sure that you have lots of thread if you are having difficulties.
- Vintage thread is just as good as new thread, PROVIDED IT IS THE RIGHT TYPE. Embroidery thread does NOT go in your sewing machine. It won't play nice.
- If your thread breaks a lot it could be one of three things: 1) Your machine tension is too tight 2) your thread is not made for machine sewing 3) your needle is dull. Check the things in that order.
- Set-in sleeves are hard. These are the sleeves you see on most shirts. If it fits your project, raglan sleeves are far more forgiving.
- You don't have to buy interfacing from the store. Though iron-on interfacing is EASIER. If you don't want to buy interfacing and just use scraps (like me!) then check this out.
- Men's shirts are actually really complicated and easy to make look stupid. Start with altering men's shirts before starting to make any.
- Sew two lines of stitches for ruffles before you gather. This makes it less likely for you to break the thread while gathering if you're pulling two threads.
- IRON. EVERYTHING. This is how it looks more professional. Make sure to know the content of the fabric you're using so you don't accidentally scorch it. Also, if you just dyed fabric, use a lower setting. And taffeta hates water.
- PRESHRINK. EVERYTHING. Wash your fabric before sewing, unless you want to see those nice seams you made suddenly look like shit the first time you wash it. AGAIN I LEARNED THIS FROM EXPERIENCE.
- Say no to polyester. Really. Even for cosplay. It's just not good. Cotton/poly blends are ok if you have more cotton than poly.
- The shinier a fabric is, the more is shows off any imperfections in the construction.
- Pleather is kind of amazing these days. But you can't pin it, as it shows holes!
Now for some beginner projects.
- Altering clothes you already own! Don't work on something you LOVE though, just something you'd like to fit better. Taking in a shirt, hemming, and other things like that are really good practice. Leave collars and cuffs alone, though. If you're looking for ideas, Anthropologie has a lot of clothes that you can sort of mimick with a little creativity and sewing skillz.
- Aprons. Though some call for bias tape, so beware. They don't require much fitting and teach a lot of the basics for machine sewing. I'm a huge fan of this pattern because it has many different combinations. Of course, the standard type of apron is fine too, I just find it a little boring. XD
- Bags. There are a bajillion and one free patterns for bags out there. Try to look for something without a zipper. A square tote style would be best for a beginner project.
- For clothing, I've found that I really like the Project Runway series of patterns. They're very "mix and match" with things that you can do with them, and for the most part rather easy to follow. My Daryl coat was one of those patterns, and it came out quite well, I think. And there are other patterns I've liked too. Here's several that I recommend:
+ A cute flouncy dress
+ My favorite coat pattern
+ A decent fauxmono
+ A cute dress that mimicks a trenchcoat that I sort of want now badly. This will make you learn to use the buttonholer!
+ Another cute, somewhat 80s (in a good way, imo) dress with buttons. Buttons before zippers!
+ Super uncomplicated top patterns.
+ Tunics are your friend if you want practice.
+ You'll have to learn gathering for this, but this skirt isn't too bad.
But, as always, go for things that you are INTERESTED in making. If the skillz to make it are something you don't have, try to find ways to simplify it, or things that are close until you get more confident. Remember, the more fitted something is, likely the more construction went into it. Loose and breezy will be easier than say, a corset. You're taking something 2D and wrapping it around something 3D. It's how it goes.
Tomorrow I'll start my "real life cosplay" sets, which will consist of clothes you can find to mimic the style of some videogame characters. I'll probably have those throughout the week, in addition to commentary I make about other aspects of sewing and clothing and fun.
Also, if anyone wants me to play stylist for them, leave me a comment. ^^
Today is all about the trials and tribulations of beginner sewing, as I know several of you are starting out with machines. Keep in mind, I am basically 99% self-taught and am constantly finding better more finished ways to do things as I go along, which people who have had some formal experience would laugh about.
But hey, at least I'm doing it, right?
I'm going to focus on women's clothing, mostly because I'm just now getting to my first men's clothing project. Not because I forget about you menfolk. I just can't say. If you want a good source of talk about men's sewing projects, I suggest Male Pattern Boldness. During his sew-alongs he goes through things step by step, and has lots of comments on both mens and womens patterns, particularly vintage.
- Fold the cloth in half and then cut if you have to cut two of the same pattern piece. Yes, I seriously did not know this at first. It saves time and makes your pieces match up better. Also, if it tells you to cut on the fold on the pattern, cut on the fold.
- Get to know how your machine handles a straight stitch before you try anything curved. Some machines have quirks. Effy (my oldest machine) was very quirky. In fact, learning on a slightly difficult machine makes it so much easier to handle ones that are friendlier.
- Woven fabrics are what you want to start with. Don't even look at stretch fabrics until you've figured out how to make something on a woven fabric, as stretch fabrics do FUNNY things.
- Bias tape is an intermediate skill, not a first project especially on a curve (yes, I did that as a first project, it disturbs me how long it took).
- Coats are actually good first projects, if you can handle sleeves. Anything with long, straight panels is excellent for beginners.
- If you're going to be doing a lot of fitted stuff, get a dressform. Seriously. It will save you time and frustration. If your measurements allow, an adjustable dressform tends to be on the cheaper side. That is still not actually cheap, but cheaper than a custom one.
- This is a slipstitch. When you pattern calls for one (and a lot of patterns do) this is what they mean. And no, they don't show you in the directions. And yes, you will have to do that by hand.
- It's easier to pick a pattern that fits your widest part that doesn't conform to an hourglass (for me, it's my waist) and then take in where it's big than the other way around. For example: when I make a bodycon dress, I always pick the pattern that matches my waist, then take in the bust and hips to fit my straight figure, rather than draft a larger waist. This allows for mistakes as well.
- In general, it's easier to take in than it is to expand. So buy more fabric than you think you'll need, leaving more of a margin of error depending on your confidence. I'm much more confident now, and can fix a mistake easier than before, so I am much closer to the suggested yardage than I used to be. When starting out, you may need as much as a half a yard of error to give yourself.
- Invest in a couple patterns. Seriously. If you go at the right times or find the right sites, you can get them for under a dollar. If you're plus sized and have issues finding patterns to fit you, then look up about pattern grading. Or how to make a pattern bigger to fit you. Annoying, I know, but it just uses paper and you can practice that a bit.
- Easy Sew types of patterns may not always be easy to sew. The best way to tell if a pattern will be easy is by looking at the back and the views. Is there a lot of panels? Darts? Funky edges? Avoid. Look for straight panels, lots of ease (aka: room for you to move in the garment), and basic silhouettes.
- Save all your scraps! Unless they are tiny things from trimming your seams. In that case, toss. But scraps are handy for a bajillion things, and good if you just want to practice a stitch.
- It's not a failure to rip out a seam and start again. Really. Just make sure that you have lots of thread if you are having difficulties.
- Vintage thread is just as good as new thread, PROVIDED IT IS THE RIGHT TYPE. Embroidery thread does NOT go in your sewing machine. It won't play nice.
- If your thread breaks a lot it could be one of three things: 1) Your machine tension is too tight 2) your thread is not made for machine sewing 3) your needle is dull. Check the things in that order.
- Set-in sleeves are hard. These are the sleeves you see on most shirts. If it fits your project, raglan sleeves are far more forgiving.
- You don't have to buy interfacing from the store. Though iron-on interfacing is EASIER. If you don't want to buy interfacing and just use scraps (like me!) then check this out.
- Men's shirts are actually really complicated and easy to make look stupid. Start with altering men's shirts before starting to make any.
- Sew two lines of stitches for ruffles before you gather. This makes it less likely for you to break the thread while gathering if you're pulling two threads.
- IRON. EVERYTHING. This is how it looks more professional. Make sure to know the content of the fabric you're using so you don't accidentally scorch it. Also, if you just dyed fabric, use a lower setting. And taffeta hates water.
- PRESHRINK. EVERYTHING. Wash your fabric before sewing, unless you want to see those nice seams you made suddenly look like shit the first time you wash it. AGAIN I LEARNED THIS FROM EXPERIENCE.
- Say no to polyester. Really. Even for cosplay. It's just not good. Cotton/poly blends are ok if you have more cotton than poly.
- The shinier a fabric is, the more is shows off any imperfections in the construction.
- Pleather is kind of amazing these days. But you can't pin it, as it shows holes!
Now for some beginner projects.
- Altering clothes you already own! Don't work on something you LOVE though, just something you'd like to fit better. Taking in a shirt, hemming, and other things like that are really good practice. Leave collars and cuffs alone, though. If you're looking for ideas, Anthropologie has a lot of clothes that you can sort of mimick with a little creativity and sewing skillz.
- Aprons. Though some call for bias tape, so beware. They don't require much fitting and teach a lot of the basics for machine sewing. I'm a huge fan of this pattern because it has many different combinations. Of course, the standard type of apron is fine too, I just find it a little boring. XD
- Bags. There are a bajillion and one free patterns for bags out there. Try to look for something without a zipper. A square tote style would be best for a beginner project.
- For clothing, I've found that I really like the Project Runway series of patterns. They're very "mix and match" with things that you can do with them, and for the most part rather easy to follow. My Daryl coat was one of those patterns, and it came out quite well, I think. And there are other patterns I've liked too. Here's several that I recommend:
+ A cute flouncy dress
+ My favorite coat pattern
+ A decent fauxmono
+ A cute dress that mimicks a trenchcoat that I sort of want now badly. This will make you learn to use the buttonholer!
+ Another cute, somewhat 80s (in a good way, imo) dress with buttons. Buttons before zippers!
+ Super uncomplicated top patterns.
+ Tunics are your friend if you want practice.
+ You'll have to learn gathering for this, but this skirt isn't too bad.
But, as always, go for things that you are INTERESTED in making. If the skillz to make it are something you don't have, try to find ways to simplify it, or things that are close until you get more confident. Remember, the more fitted something is, likely the more construction went into it. Loose and breezy will be easier than say, a corset. You're taking something 2D and wrapping it around something 3D. It's how it goes.
Tomorrow I'll start my "real life cosplay" sets, which will consist of clothes you can find to mimic the style of some videogame characters. I'll probably have those throughout the week, in addition to commentary I make about other aspects of sewing and clothing and fun.
Also, if anyone wants me to play stylist for them, leave me a comment. ^^
(no subject)
Date: 2011-04-25 10:56 pm (UTC)They don't have to be. I have not done a set-in sleeve, even if the pattern calls for it- in YEARS.
I use the "L" method.
ie: you leave the side and the arm of the shirt/sleeve open. attach at shoulder. sew shut from cuff to waist. OMG SO MUCH EASIER.
(no subject)
Date: 2011-04-26 02:44 am (UTC)That makes so much sense.
(no subject)
Date: 2011-04-25 11:20 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2011-04-26 04:37 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2011-04-26 01:29 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2011-04-26 01:44 am (UTC)I really enjoyed how encouraging this post was about how to start sewing. Back when I was younger I would have totally approach the advice.
I would totally love to have you do a play stylist list for me.
Take care!
(no subject)
Date: 2011-04-26 02:55 am (UTC)- What sorts of clothes you wear now currently (jeans, t-shirts type, or a flouncy dresses type?)
- What sorts of clothes you like on other people but never seem to wear
- If your lifestyle requires a mostly casual wardrobe, or professional clothes, or say, formal clothes for church, whatevs.
- Favorite colors or fabrics (or if you don't know or care).
(no subject)
Date: 2011-04-26 07:55 pm (UTC)I usually pretty much wear t-shirts and slacks unless I’m on church business then I pretty much wear skirts and nicer t-shirts.
- What sorts of clothes you like on other people but never seem to wear
This is such a hard question. I guess things that aren’t t-shirts and have colors, also scarves.
- If your lifestyle requires a mostly casual wardrobe, or professional clothes, or say, formal clothes for church, whatevs.
I’m pretty much at a casual point in my life.
- Favorite colors or fabrics (or if you don't know or care).
Blues and purples are my favorite colors. I have no idea about fabrics.
(no subject)
Date: 2011-04-26 05:09 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2011-04-27 05:33 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2011-04-28 05:29 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2011-04-28 02:48 pm (UTC)Although, instead of using a commercial kimono pattern, I recommend Anneliese's kimono workshop, as it literally is all straight lines and one piece, where most kimono patterns now tend to be a wrap skirt and a wrap top. She does err on the measurements for 5 yards divided into three equal sections (for the second pattern layout, which makes a standard kimono), so you'll just have to redo that, and, BONUS, it's a one size fits most pattern. :D
Another suggestion is, if for some reason your machine isn't playing right with "normal" thread-- pretty much the big generic 100% cotton spools that you'd get at Walmart, etc, try Guterman. The threads are wrapped in an opposite direction from the regular stuff, and tend to behave a little better as far as pulling and snapping goes.